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Re: homemade outboard

Posted by KenOhki (A) on March 16, 2003 at 07:08:27

In Reply to: Re: homemade outboard posted by machnumber2 on March 16, 2003 at 00:04:03:

Hmm, lets see here.. about the hindge deal,, How about bolting matching steel to the hindge then weld to your pipe. or perhaps figure a way to get a U-Bolt on it there. One other lesser Idea would be to incorperate some Bunge cords. tied in the middle to yourlower unit shaft, and connected at both ends to the transom of the boat. It will add some stabilization, yet still alow for tilt.
I am a little unclear as to what you described for the PVC pipes but I am aware of the general disign you intend.. I would not greese them in order to hammer them together. try something like soapy water first.. if I am not mistaken, both ABC and PVC do not respond well to hamering, So try to be gentel. I would try to compress it together with Like a car jack, if you can find someplace to prop the jack and the pipe together and get compresion. Now, getting it off again. a bolt mounted and sealed in place might allow you to dissasemble it. I would definitly use as large a washer as possible on the inside.
Dont worry about working with the fiberglass, Its almost like doing paper machea. If you require help on that issue Ill get into it in more detail. Fiberglass is wonderouse stuff.
On too mounting the prop.. I would strongly suggest you mount it exactly the way a standart outboard would mount. Reduce the size of the shaft and thread it with a tap and dye set Drill a hole in the shaft before and after the prop.The hole before the prop is to lock the nut with a cotter pin, the hole after is for the shear pin that will grip the prop. Drilling that shaft could be a problem, But it really is the only accepted way to do that.. as far as reducing the diamerter of the prop. let your motor turn it and put a metal file or grinder to it.( make sure you brace the shaft so it dosent warp ) Using the motor to turn the shaft will insure a even reduction, You will probably have to grind 3 too 4 inches down the length of the prop and then Dye it that far down the shaft. I would drill before I dyed. You definitly do not want to use welding in any way shape or form to mount your prop. I would not drill out the prop. If I am not mistaken ,, your prop should have a rubber bushing inside of it. It best not to mess with it. ow yeah, If you have a choice, use a fine thread dye as oposed to a course thread one. I dont think there is really a junkyard methoid to attach the prop that I would trust. Not if I wanted it to last more then a hour or so. If yo do decide to drill your prop, I dont think drilling it straight is really a concern, the prop already has a hole, and that will asct as a pilot hole and pretty much guide the drill bit in straight. Just take your time and drill slow.

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