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Re: homemade outboard

Posted by KenOhki (A) on March 13, 2003 at 12:27:23

In Reply to: Re: homemade outboard posted by machnumber2 on March 12, 2003 at 23:40:10:

Well, actualy, Mine is a 1969 Evinrude 6.5 But I do tend to call it a 6 for ease of typing. Yeah Ive been all over the web, after shiping its always been around 90 bucks total from what I have seen. Its a 2 blade deal, but I dont know the specifics, they are long worn off the prop and cant be read. I most likely could adapt a diferent prop to it. What happened to it? Hmm, well, I bought the boat from someone who probably thoguht he was riping me off. He didnt appear too bright either.. WHen I bought it, it had a hole in the keel big enough to toss a softball through. Looks like he ran up up on some rocks. But he claims the roller on the trailer did it during transport. The motor ( that he said was a 7.5) looked in good shape to me, but what did I know, It was going to be my first Outboard. But later, a friend of mine looked at it and informed me that it was deformed. after looking at his prop, I understood. It appears the prop was run up on a rock or something, I say this becuse it is uniformily deformed on both blades,The appearance of the prop supports my opinion, BUt I cant say for sure.. There was also soooo much oil in the gas, that it would not start. thinking it was just dead, I eathered it, and got it to run, Hoever I put on a smoke show like you have never seen hehehe. SO I imidiatly changed the gas to a good mix and it ran and fired perfectly after burning all the crap gas out.. The trailor lights were also dead, the wireing was the worst ive ever seen,, So I am certain he thoguht he was unloading a piece of crap on me. the only thing I had to buy for it was a new batt for the trolling motor,a 1/2 galon of marien fiberglass resin, some fiberglas mesh,40' of wire and a quart of bottom paint. total repair and paint cost, 45 bucks ( dont concider the batt. repair ) 60 for batterie. However I think I got a steal. 400 bucks for the 14 foot fiberglass game fisher with 3 captains chairs, wide optic fish finder 40 LB thrust foot controled MInKota troler,6.6hp evenrude, 2.5 gal fuel tank,Livewell waterpump and a trailor to boot.Hell the min kota itself is worth 300. And the fish finder another 100, I had a offer of 1000 bucks on it the first day it was in my yard. I almost took it seeing 600 profit, but didnt think I could find a boat with all this stuff for that money around here anytime soon, And I wanted out on the water,, Shore fishing was getting me down. Just prior to this purchase I was concidering a rubber raft hehehe.

Back to your prodject, I dont think it will shake itself apart. You might want to make a small support frame for the prop end of the shaft around your stuffing box. It may or may not want to rise a bit when put it under load outside of its casing, and this isnt a good thing. I am pretty certain your outboard will work no problems. I suppose if the motor runs rough itself, it might vibrate a little but nothing aditional support cant fix if need be. if Vibration is a real problem, You might concider making some rubber mounts for it, Ill get into that at some other point if it becomes necisairy.

Im kinda sitting here thinking to myself. At such low HP, the belt being wet may not be the problem we both beleive it to be. When you get this running, Just for shits and giggles, wet down the belt and pullys, see what that does, then, with a leather glove on grab the shaft and apply preasure to it to see if you can make the belt slip. ( there are other ways to stress it, like sandwiching it between 2 2x4's,) But I think this might be a good thing to check at this stage of the game.

On to a little less exciting point. I was also sitting here looking at your design and something just occured to me, You have made no provision for tilting the motor out of the water. this could cause problems getting the boat in and out of the water, And If you do hit something with it underwater, its gonna hit solid, and potentialy take you right out of action. I always leave my motor Unlocked so it will "kick back" if it hits something underwater. As much as I hate to suggest redoing something again that I already sugested you redo...You might want to once again make a design change to your mount. Perhaps using a heavey door hindge on the horizontal pipe that you already shortened a few days ago. Between the pipe and the mounting bracket. I feel this is a magor design flaw,, I kinda kick myself for not noticing it sooner,when I noticed the lenght problem, However I have also kinda been concintraiting on your problems as they arise on a case by case basis so to speak, This problem wont manifest itself til you are actualy putting the boat in the water and trying to use it.
This is not a manditory change, I mean, it will work one way or the other. I guess it boils down to How much of a risk do you think it is, and how much problems it could cause now that this thought has been thrown into the Mix. Remember, Your welds will be absorbing any shock of this nature. I think you should also plan for a teather, from the motor to the boat, and maybe even a second one on the lower unit, SO if something does give way, it is still attached to the boat, and not on the bottom of the Bay.

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