Small Boat Forum Welcome! Need support, you got it. Or share you ideas and experiences.

---

[ Follow Ups ] Thread: [ Display  All  Email ] [ Small Boat Forum ]

---

[ Alert Moderator ] [ Edit ] [ Delete ]

---

Re: homemade outboard

68.4.211.130

Posted by machnumber2 on March 10, 2003 at 22:11:32

In Reply to: Re: homemade outboard posted by KenOhki on March 9, 2003 at 07:40:23:

I remember taking a welding class in shop and could not get that "swirl" look to my welding, even with the correct equipment and setting, I know that there is a definate skill involved. My teacher would look at my welding, then show me out to weld, his came out perfect. There are alot of variables to think about, you have the equipment, settings, metals used, angle of rod, distance of rod from metal, speed that you are traveling down the metal, swirl pattern that you use and on and on. The welder I am using is 110V and is turned on the "high" setting. But as I am welding the thing overheats every 5 minutes and shuts itself off. I put a fan next to it and that seems to have helped a bit. I figure if I weld the heck out of the metal and pile it up all around its better than nothing, I dont know if its melting real well though, in the past I have had welds break by bending the piece back and forth, I could see that it did not penetrate. At the lower end I will try to reinforce it with about 1"x2" piece on each side welded at the base plate and to the pipe. I like the resivour idea because water is bound to splash in there, especially if I cross somebodies wake. The hand pump idea is good and easy to to find, but I may be too lazy for that. Probably will rig up a 6 or 12 volt battery to some pump and a switch. I went to this place called Applied Industrial Technologies, the place is awesome you can find any kind of mechanical part for anything. I went there for idler pulleys and to discuss my ideas with the guy at the counter. He first recomended a chain sprocket until he found out that it was going to be spinning at 4000 rpm which is too fast for that. We stayed with the belt pulleys but he did not like the idler idea at all. Like you said he said the belts were going to fly off and the it was going to eat up alot of horsepower and cause many headaches. We decided the best was just to do a direct drive system-but the belt stretch problem had to be addressed. After discussion we came up with just adding another motor mount plate on top of the existing, putting four bolts through the plates with nuts and washers. Then I could adjust the distance between the plates and thus tighten and loosen the belts as needed. It does not offer me a practical "neutral" for the prop but I can live without that-I just hope I can start the motor in gear. I also went to a plumbing supply place to check out the possiblities with the PVC fittings. What a headache. throughout this process I have found that it is easy to write anything you want on your design, but actually finding the parts and building it is a totally different thing. I did find a 4" round T fitting (it is not PVC but something called "ABS" its plastic sewer pipe) but I could not find a T that head threaded ends like I wanted. I wanted to have threaded ends so that I could open up the lower end and disassemble If I needed too. If I use that glue its permanent and I would have to destroy the lower end plastic in order to get to the bearings and pulley etc. Then I remembered your design about the shaft seal using a innertube. Indead of using glue, I might just put the cap on loosely, put a couple of wood screws to hold it in place, then stretch rubber over it and hold it in place with hose clamps. I dunno any other ideas about that? Today I got another steel plate and a 1/2" high speed titaniam drill bit. I clamped the two plates together for drilling. Each plate is 3/16" thick so the total thickness with them on top of another is 3/8" of mild steel. I go to drill one hole at each corner and manage to drill two holes before the bit gives out and will not drill anymore. It was an expensive bit, there must be an easy way to put holes in steel. I know that you can use a blow torch but that leaves an ugly jagged hole. There must be some kind of hole grinder that grinds right through, I dont need it to be really accurate. Do you know of anything like this? Anyways jeez I have really rambled on sorry, just encountering a few problems here hehe. Updtated photos below.

http://machnumber2.50megs.com/photos/outboard2/photos/outboard.html

• http://machnumber2.50megs.com/photos/outboard2/photos/outboard.html   (Open in New Window)

This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:

Atma-Sphere Music Systems, Inc.

---

[ Top of Page ] [ Contact Us ] [ Support/Wish List ] [ Copyright © 2024, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]

---

[ General ] [ Speakers ] [ Tubes ] [ Vinyl ] [ Digital ] [ Hi-Rez ] [ Video Asylum ] [ Cables ] [ Tweaks/DIY ] [ Music ] [ Films ]

---