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In Reply to: Problems Shooting Art Work: posted by Vinylly on April 12, 2003 at 20:01:24:
Hi, Ok firstly diffuse the lights--you can use Kodatrace available from Artist/Designer supplies. I would also lower the angle down and out slightly of each light.
Now the trick for even richer tonal saturation -- obtain some sheet Polaroid from your local Pro Cine outlet and polarise each light to eliminate the 'sheen' and enrich the colors. Shoot with a Polarising filter on your camera turning while viewing the Artwork in the Viewfinder. Remember to allow 1.5 to 2 stops exposure compensation.Good Shooting,
Des
Follow Ups:
that depending on how large the artwork might be say over 3 or 4 feet.You could add a second set of light arms.Making two lights per side. With a velum type difuser clamped over each light along with sheet of polarizing material.Just keep these difusers from touching the light bulbs (they burn).
G'day Joe-yep they burn alright--with tungsten I'd tape to the barndoors--Strobe- use maybe a clothespeg or two.He's just got to test it and mark the correct angle and leave.
Big artwork is problematic--don't even mention if it's glassed!--notice how every little lens ring/shiny tripod nut /etc, reflection seems to sneak its way into the finished shot!
Color matching and printing for temperamental artists-groan!
on the first few frames of print film.For his printer to adjust color matching.Slides I used to shoot with Ektachome 100 for neutral balance.I sometimes would erect a tent lighting arrangement to handle shiny objects.From white bed sheets or double velum sheets wrapped in front of art.Add lights from the outside or the sun.Leaving a hole for the camera to shoot thru. Many ways to skin a cat as they used to say.
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